The Summer Palace

Even in a city as large as Beijing, there are pockets of tranquility.  In this bustling city’s northwest corner, the Summer Palace is nestled between Longevity Hill and Kunming Lake where it has stood for the last 900 years. Pavilions, pagodas, gardens, and calming ponds of lilly pads all live up to the Chinese name, Yíhé Yuán, which means “Gardens of Nurtured Harmony.”  To walk through the grounds of the Summer Palace is to know the meaning of peace.

The site was first built during the Jin Dynasty when Emperor  Wányán Liàng move the capital to Beijing in the 12th century.  It would be another 600 years or so before the famous gardens would be commissioned by emperors of the Qing Dynasty.  Just like everywhere else in China, ghosts of the past roam freely around the Summer Palace, whispering their secrets from every corner.

Upon entering the complex, visitors are greeted by a large structure known as the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity.  Stunning mythological creatures cast in bronze stand guard in front of several doorways.

A dragon guards The Hall of Benevolence and Longevity. Photo by: c.b.w.

Through the doors, a lush garden filled with ponds, greenery, and stillness awaits.  Despite the throngs of people crowding every walkway and bridge, all are quiet as if the gardens cast a spell on those who enter.

A Pavilion looms over a large lilly pond at the Summer Palace. Photo by: c.b.w.

Pink, white, and yellow lilly flowers bloom in shallow pools of water. Walking among the greenery and gurgling streams is like walking through a dream world that lives only in the imagination.  It’s hard to believe the metropolis of Beijing is just outside the boundaries.  I sit on a bench and let the rush of traffic and the noise millions of people dissolve in the trees.

A pond sits quietly as lilly pads float and people cross a single stone bridge. Summer Palace Gardens, Beijing. Photo by: c.b.w.

The air is heavy with the smell of green, while a breeze always seems to blow through at just the right time. Secret passages arouse curiosity and open doors beg for eyes to peek.

Old ghosts may linger behind open doors. Summer Palace, Beijing. Photo by: c.b.w.

Aside from the gardens, the focal point of the Summer Palace is Longevity Hill.  The front side of the hill is dominated by architecture including pavilions, great halls, and pagodas, while the back plays host to the  magnificent gardens.  Surrounding the entire complex is a centuries old man-made water reserve known as Kunming Lake.

Longevity Hill, Summer Palace, Beijing. Photo by: c.b.w.

“Docked” in the water, is the infamous Marble Boat Pavilion, which was originally built by The Quianlong Emperor, but subsequently destroyed during the Second Opium War in 1860.  It wasn’t restored until 1893 under the orders of the Empress Dowager Cixi, who took up residence in the palace during the summer months, (hence, the name “Summer Palace”).  The boat is two stories tall and constructed with wood painted to look like marble.

The Marble Boat Pavilion is where East meets West in architectural fusion. Summer Palace, Beijing. Photo by: c.b.w.

The Empress Dowager faced harsh scrutiny for her decision to rebuild the pavilion for a number of reasons.  First, the boat was rebuilt in a more Western style, which was considered offensive during a time when  Western influence was threatening the collapse of the Qing Dynasty and causing unwelcome shifts in traditional Chinese culture.  Second, she spent a fortune to reconstruct and expand the palace when China was in political and economic turmoil.  Worse still, the money she piddled away was originally earmarked for the navy.  Her decisions may not have been popular, but the beauty of the Summer Palace continues to awe those who visit.  Perhaps, the Empress Dowager saw the grounds as her only escape from the frightening chaos ripping China apart.

While history resides at the core of the Summer Palace, the present is not forgotten. Among the lilly pads beautiful flowers bloom to remind us there is always a moment of a beauty to behold.

A lily blooms in the gardens of the Summer Palace. Photo by: c.b.w.

Honor the past, but always breathe in the present.  In the garden of nurtured harmony, anything is possible.

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c.b. 2012

The Yellow Emperor’s Tomb

Much like King Arthur,  The Yellow Emperor of China straddles the line between reality and myth. There are those who view him as a historical figure who helped pull China out the chaotic Warring States period and others who see him as nothing more than a deity crafted from old world mythology. The truth is ultimately lost to time, but the filial piety of a nation has brought people and their offerings to his tomb since 442 BC.

Dragon tiles adorn an entry gate, symbolizing the Yellow Emperor. During the Warring States Period the color yellow was associated with Earth, dragons, and the center. (Photo by: c.b.w.)

Up in the hills of Shaanxi Province, near the city of Yan’an, The Yellow Emperor’s tomb stands as a testament to his legend as the founder of Chinese culture and the single ancestor of all Han Chinese. The mausoleum complex is an awe inspiring tribute to China’s equivalent of a founding father. Upon arrival to the complex,  visitors are greeted with a huge white building that serves as an entryway into a large outdoor temple filled with gardens and memorials to the emperor. The grounds are shaded by huge cypress trees, one of which is purported to be more than 5,000 years old and planted by the Yellow Emperor himself.  I stood in awe of this tree as it towered overhead with rutted bark and twisted branches.

As per mythology, this cypress tree is believed to have been planted by The Yellow Emperor. Wires and metal rods help keep it standing and guide its growth. (Photo by: c.b.w.)

One of places where people are invited to leave offerings is at a site that claims to have footprint castings of the Yellow Emperor.  I’ve been to a lot of tombs and mausoleums in my travels, but I’ve never encountered a relic quite like this one.  The prints are enormous and clearly meant to be symbolic The Yellow Emperor’s status in Chinese culture, rather than be taken as authentic.  Worship isn’t of the relic itself, but the idea of the Yellow Emperor’s footprints and what he means to the Chinese people.

The Yellow Emperor's "Footprints." Offerings of money (both coin and cash) are a common sight at Chinese temples and tombs. (Photo by: c.b.w.)

One of the core components of Chinese culture is filial piety, which is a Confucian virtue of respect for one’s parents and ancestors.  Very often Chinese families have an alter in their homes that honors all previous family members and sometimes political leaders or historical heroes.  The Yellow Emperor puts this virtue on a grand display as people continue to pay respects to an individual that is considered the ultimate ancestor.

At the base of the actual tomb is an area which houses several memorials, stone steles commemorating the emperor’s accomplishments, and temples with offering tables.  Besides coins and cash, the most popular offering is a bundle of lit incense.  The believer bows at least three times, kneels, and then places the incense in a large vat of ash. I watched one man in particular take special care to make sure the incense remained standing so it would burn through completely.

In an act of filial piety, a man offers incense to honor The Yellow Emperor. (Photo by: c.b.w.)

The tradition of filial piety continues to pass from one generation to the next as a boy lights a candle on the alter to pay homage to The Yellow Emperor.  As I observed this boy carry on such an old practice, I realized just how central the idea of ancestry is to the Chinese.  It is an emotional experience that creates amazing strength of character and a sense of honor.

A young boy carries on the tradition of filial piety by lighting candles on the offering table at the Yellow Emperor's Mausoleum. (Photo by: c.b.w.)

The mausoleum is mostly a memorial, whereas the tomb of the Yellow Emperor is believed to be the actual burial site.  To get to the tomb, I had to climb 277 stairs that lead to another beautiful garden of flowers and cypress trees.  It’ll take another 77 steps to get to the top of Qiao Mountain, where the prayer mound is situated.

Wear good walking shoes! There are a total of 354 stairs to climb in order to reach the Yellow Emperor's Tomb! (Photo by: c.b.w.)

The tomb is marked by a beautiful arbor painted and carved with traditional Chinese motifs. A large stone stele is essentially the gravestone of The Yellow Emperor’s burial site.  There is yet another place to leave offerings.  Two bowls with “eternal flames” flank the offering site, allowing everyone a chance to light incense and candles for the emperor.

Several individuals pay their respects at the tomb of The Yellow Emperor. (Photo by: c.b.w.)

It was an honor to visit such a sacred place.  The eternal devotion and emotional connection to The Yellow Emperor on the part of the Chinese people is incredibly powerful.  The concept of one individual tying so many people together is a beautiful idea.  We aren’t as different as we think, considering we all have a need to honor those who came before us, even if in our own unique ways.

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c.b. 2012

Seeds to Ponder

Sunflower Seeds by Ai Weiwei is a profound work of art in both its simplicity and awe inspiring scope.  At first glance, it looks like a pile of sunflower seed husks, but upon closer inspection the incredible reality of this piece becomes apparent.  Each seed is handcrafted from porcelain and hand-painted.  No two are alike and more than 100 million were created for the initial exhibition that covered the the Turbine Hall at The Tate Modern.

"Sunflower Seeds" by Ai Weiwei, Original Exhibition in the Turbine Hall at Tate Modern, (Photo Source: Wikipedia Commons)

During the initial run of the exhibition, (October 2009 – May 2010), people were encouraged to interact with the installation by walking through, sitting or even lying down amid the seeds, but that was short lived as soon as health, safety, and preservation concerns caused it to be roped off.  I’m a little jealous of those who were able to tread through the seeds!

In 2011, the Tate put 8 million of the original seeds on display in response to Weiwei’s detainment by the Chinese government and subsequent disappearance¹.  The display, which represents about 1/10 of the original installation, sits in a large pile in an exhibition room on the third floor. While significantly smaller than the original, the intent and deeper meaning of Weiwei’s work has not been lost.

"Sunflower Seeds" by Ai Weiwei, Tate Museum, London, June 2011, c.b.w.

While open to interpretation on many levels, the intent of Sunflower Seeds reaches into a dark chapter of Chinese history and the human spirit.  During the Cultural Revolution, (a particularly brutal era in history where people lost basic human rights and were stripped of cultural traditions), Mao Zedong launched a massive propaganda campaign where in some instances he depicted himself as the sun and the people as sunflowers who turn their heads to follow him.  However, the artist sees sunflower seeds as a traditional food shared among friends in China and is therefore a symbol of friendship and compassion.  This duality of symbolism creates an interesting insight into the human spirit.  Even in times of strife and struggle, kindness and goodwill continue to survive.

In addition,  Weiwei’s installation offers social commentary on today’s society.  The Tate poses several questions to consider while viewing the seeds:

• What does it mean to be an individual in today’s society?
• Are we insignificant or powerless unless we act together?
• What do our increasing desires, materialism and number mean for society, the environment and the future?

I had the pleasure of spending some time with this installation last summer, but even after an hour of regarding the Weiwei’s work and contemplating these questions I am no closer to answering them.  Though, I am reminded of a favorite quote, which sums up my general impression of the piece:

What happens to people who spend their lives afraid to voice their opinions? They stop thinking, most likely.

- Ivan Klíma

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¹He was released in June 2011, but remains under scrutiny.

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Sources: 

Tate Modern Exhibition Pages

Ai Weiwei on Wikipedia

The Guardian – Detained Artist Weiwei Remembered . . .

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c.b. 2012

Just Believe

The first time I heard the name Mary Wollstonecraft was back in college during a women’s studies history class.  I admired her right from the start for not only having a strong voice, but the courage to use it at a time when women were largely expected to be silent.  Her writings have an air of elegance, but they are also among the first to advocate equality between genders, which made her one of the first feminists in history. She had guts, intelligence, and fortitude when the whole world told her women had no right to any of those things. Still, she believed.

Wollstonecraft died well before the women’s rights movement took off in the mid-19th and early 20th centuries, so she never got to see the ideals she supported take shape.  Seneca Falls, the suffrage movement in Europe and America, and a slew of other gender related battles took place long after her words. Long after there was any hope of them coming true.  She still believed, when all seemed impossible.

There are, of course, many individuals who contributed to the long journey of women’s rights, but I have a soft spot for Wollstonecraft.  She understood the importance of believing in something even when it seems so far out of reach.  While an incredibly difficult thing to do, it is well within our grasp if we make the choice to believe.

For the last two years, I’ve chosen “believe” to be my word of the year.  It appears throughout my home – on the refrigerator, end table, dream board, as well as several hidden places where I’ll unexpectedly happen upon it one day – to help keep me focused.  A couple of months ago I made a necklace with a “believe” charm to wear on days when doubt threatens to steal my determination.

"Believe" Beaded Necklace, created by c.b.w.

Each strand of the pendant has charms that I chose for both meaning and sparkle.  I’ve always loved leaves and their ability to bloom even after a cold winter, while dragonflies are the epitome of strength and grace.  On the third strand is the all important “believe” ring, an infinite tribute to the idea of believing without fail.  Just as Wollstonecraft kept writing, so will I.

My goals for this year are daunting and the propensity for rejection is immense.  How easy it would be to give up, but . . . I won’t.  I must believe.

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Factoid: Wollstonecraft’s daughter is Mary Shelley of Frankenstein fame.

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c.b. 2012

Vintage Soul

Lingering relics
guard the past
Steadfast holdouts
fend off now
Wounded windows
never heal
Bleeding paint
impels new scars
Wrought iron will
stakes its claim

Fetter Lane, London, c.b.w. June 2011

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c.b. 2012