A to Z Abroad: Zedong’s Mausoleum

Picture this: Waiting in line for four hours in 90 degree heat to see a dead guy on display. My tour director in China thought seeing the well-preserved corpse of Mao Zedong would be a perfect way to spend my second morning in Beijing. Yikes.

When I arrived at Tiananmen Square,  a huge line was already forming around Mao’s Mausoleum. The paint I saw on the pavement the day before now made sense. The painted lines are lane markers so people know where to stand on days when the mausoleum was open.

The line around Mao Zedong’s Mausoleum
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

Guards actively monitor the lanes to make sure people stand four-wide and that the line wraps around the building in an orderly fashion. However, the guard’s most important duty is to watch out for line-cutters and remove those who are not properly attired to view Mao. Flip-flops and cameras are not allowed!

The line was about three rings wide, which translated to about four hours of waiting. Line cutters are  a big problem and there weren’t enough guards to stop them all. We had to actively shoo away rude and impatient people from cutting in front of us. I don’t know if line-cutting is an open rebellion to the Western standard of queuing up or if these people really are that excited to see Mao.

Mao Zedong is a controversial historical figure, especially in the West. He is considered a brutal dictator responsible for millions of deaths, but in China his legacy is protected by propaganda both past and present. Despite the violence and death associated with his regime, many in China still view him as a hero. Even though he’s been dead since 1976, he still enjoys idol status and is worshipped by millions. The crowd surrounding his mausoleum is proof of his elevated status. Thousands of people carry flowers and other offerings, waiting for the chance to catch a glimpse of Mao Zedong’s body.

The entrance to the mausoleum is flanked by statues commemorating all those who fought alongside Mao.

Memorial to the soldiers who fought in the Communist Revolution
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

After passing through the memorial “gates,” the guards split the line in half – two people go to the right and two people go to the left. Upon entering the building, the guards tell people to keep moving unless they are leaving offerings.

After walking through small causeway, I found myself in the presence Mao lying on a platform and surrounded by bulletproof glass. Offerings of flowers, money, and gifts were piled up at the base of the glass enclosure. Those adding to the pile hit their knees in prayer.

As a history teacher, I found myself staring at a man I’ve only seen in textbooks. Even though I had to keep walking, I pondered his role in the world, while watching people leave offering and offering. Some even cried at the sight of him, the way fangirls do when they meet their favorite singer. Here I was in the middle, considering two very different sides to the same coin.

Within a few minutes, I was again outside. The line was still wrapped around the building full of people waiting for their moment with Mao. As they wait, they look upon his image on Tiananmen Gate.

Mao Zedong’s image on Tiananmen Gate
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

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Part of the A to Z Challenge!

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c.b.w. 2013

A to Z Abroad: Ya’nan

One off-the-radar place for an American to visit in China is Ya’nan, as it is considered the birthplace of the Communist Revolution. Aside from monuments and museums dedicated to Mao Zedong (the leader of  communist China until his death in 1976), Ya’nan is also home to beautiful cultural traditions.

Ya’nan, Shaanxi, China
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

Ya’nan usually isn’t on a Westerner’s agenda, but it does serve as a major destination for Chinese tourists looking to see iconic locations associated with Chinese history. It was interesting to watch anxious tourists waiting in lines to go through a museum preserving relics from the civil war between Communists and Nationalists. Weapons, articles of clothing, and documents that would be objects of curiosity in the West are instruments of hero worship in Ya’nan.

Statue of Mao Zedong outside a museum dedicated to him and the Communist Revolution
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

As I walked through this museum, guards followed me. As an American, I stuck out and was instantly treated with suspicion. After all, what would a pro-democracy, capitalist be doing in a communist museum? If they really must know, the history teacher in me was fascinated. Luckily, my shadow kept a distance and let me roam freely.

Parts of the hills around Ya’nan are essentially an extension of the museum. In 1934, Mao Zedong lead around 12,000 communists and supporters on The Long March to escape the pursuits of the Nationalist army. Mao settled in an area around Ya’nan, where he as his army lived in cave homes. Many of these homes are preserved and opened to tourists, including the home where Mao lived throughout the revolution.

Of course, I walked through Mao’s cave home. I don’t know what was more interesting, the fact that the interior was so cool without the use of A/C or watching a group of Chinese tourists excitedly feast their eyes on the every day items of a man that still has idol status. Again, I was looked upon as being out of place, but at this point I was accustomed to being an outsider.

Entrance to a cave home in the hills Ya’nan
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

The star above the doorway is a symbol of Communism and continues to be used today in China’s flag. All around the cave homes are speakers dressed in revolution military uniforms. The man below claimed to fight alongside Mao, but I’m no so sure about that. My guide warned us that most Chinese accept the concept of “authentic fake” when it comes to relics and witnesses. Essentially, if something is realistic, then it’s authentic enough.

Historical speaker in Ya’nan
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

He spoke English quite well, so I sat down and listened to him for a little while. In a way, it was like listening to my grandpa tell stories about his experiences in the war. However, the Chinese tourists around me listened with incredible enthusiasm.

Ya’nan also boasts a nine-story pagoda built during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 A.D.). Aside from beautiful dynastic architecture, the tower is also significant to the Chinese revolutionary movement. When the Communist Party had it’s headquarters in Ya’nan the bell was used to toll the hour of the day and sound alarms.

Ya’nan Hill Pagoda
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

After getting my fill of Chinese revolutionary history, I was treated to a performance of  tribal dance. China is actually home to at least 68 ethnic groups, each with their own traditions. The people in the hills of Ya’nan are full of smiles and brilliant color as they moves across the stage.

Traditional dance in Ya’nan
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

Besides being followed and regarded with confusion, I look upon my time Ya’nan as one of the more interesting experiences I had in China. The West sees Mao Zedong in a rather negative light, (rightly so in many respects), but in China the man is still revered by many. History, of course, will be the ultimate judge, but for now the duality of his legacy remains in place.

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Part of the A to Z Challenge!

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c.b.w. 2013

A to Z Abroad: St. Clement Danes

London is home to countless churches filled with centuries of history and lore, but one of the more interesting stories lies within the walls of St. Clement Danes. For about a thousand years this church has stood its ground despite war and fire.

St. Clement Danes, London
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011

Situated in Westminster, across the street from the Royal Courts of Justice, St. Clement Danes stands as a testament to both the passing of time and the unbreakable nature of persistence. The true origins of this church are up for debate as no one is absolutely certain who built it first or why it includes a reference to the Danes. Of several theories, one of the more commonly accepted is that the church was built by the Danes when they controlled the village of Aldwych (modern day Westminster) in the 9th century.

By the 11th century, the church was rebuilt by William the Conqueror and then again in the Middle Ages. By the 17th century the building was in such disrepair, it was demolished and redesigned by Sir Christopher Wren. In the 18th century, James Gibbs added a steeple to Wren’s tower. And there it stood until World War II.

The London Blitz of 1941 almost destroyed St. Clement Danes. The interior was gutted by fire, but the walls and steeple managed to survive.

St. Clement Danes on fire during the London Blitz
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia Commons

Once again the church was rebuilt, following Christopher Wren’s design. The stubborn walls of St. Clement Danes were left in place and still bear the holes left by German bombs. I was surprised to find the holes are a lot bigger than they look. I could easily fit both of my hands inside of several wall wounds.

St. Clement Danes – Damage from the London Blitz
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011

St Clement wears its scars proudly and continues to stand true to this day. Along the side of the church is a plaque that reminds us all to rebuild and never give up when darkness descends.

St. Clement Danes – Plaque commemorating the church’s history.
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011

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Just for fun . . . I captured this image one the side wall of St. Clement Danes. Can you see the face??

I see a face!
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011

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Part of the A to Z Challenge!

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c.b.w. 2013

A to Z Abroad: Petrie Museum

London is well-known for world-class museums like the British Museum, National Gallery, and Tate Modern. These museums all house incredible collections of artifacts and artistic expression, but there is another museum with an equally impressive inventory that often gets overlooked.

The Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archeology occupies a small space on Malet Place (near Gower St) and is part of University College London Museums and Collections. If you can find the small door and the bell to ring to gain entrance, be prepared to stare in awe at the artifacts contained in row after row of glass cases.

Petrie Museum – Clay vessels and pots
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011

Instead of the wide-open spaces of the British Museum, the Petrie feels more like a basement with cramped spaces and crowded shelves. Because many of the artifacts are still utilized for scientific study, the emphasis is not on visual display, but rather meticulous classification. Objects are organized by type (i.e. glasswork, vessels, stone reliefs, jewelry, statues, textiles, tools, etc) and by time period.

Petrie Museum – clay molds used during the Amarna Period
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011

Despite the relatively small size of the Petrie Museum, it boasts one of the largest collections of Egyptian artifacts in the world, particularly from the Amarna Period. Forgive me as I geek out, but the Amarana Period has been the subject of years of personal study. There are no words to describe my excitement when I walked through the door and saw thousands of artifacts that existed in an era that I actively try to reconstruct in my mind.

Petrie Museum – Gorgeous glass fragments from Amarna
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011

During the Amarna Period,  the Heretic King, Ankhenaten ruled over Egypt. Ankhenaten attempted to transform the polytheistic faith of ancient Egypt into a monotheistic faith system. In effect, he wanted to take away all the gods of Egyptian mythology and replace them with one god, the Aten (or Sun god). In addition, he moved the capital of Egypt to a spot in the middle of the desert and built a new city  in honor of the Aten called Akhetaten, (now known as Amarna). Both ventures were horrific failures and lead to economic and social collapse. Ankhenaten died a reviled figure and left a broken kingdom to his son Tutankhamun, (the infamous King Tut).

Petrie Museum – Stone relief carving
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011

Political and religious movements aside, the Amarana Period is also a unique era of artistic expression. Prior to the reign of Ankenaten, Egyptian art maintained a very strict tradition of symmetry with figures that had an almost “boxy” appearance. In Amarna, art took on very different aesthetic with distinctive curves and stronger references to the Aten.

The image below, (on display at the museum) shows these characteristics. A headless Aknenaten has very wide, curvy hips and a drooping belly. In the old style, the Pharaoh would never be depicted as anything less than a perfect god, so showing these imperfections is a drastic change!

A reference to the monotheistic movement can also be seen in the sun “rays” tipped with hands carrying the ankh – a simple of life. Akhenaten and his wife Nefertiti are graciously accepting the life-giving force of the Aten and giving offerings in return, (Nefertiti is holding a vessel, which is typically viewed as an offering).

Petrie Museum – Ankhenaten and Nefertiti gathering the gift of life from the Aten
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011

While the British Museum has an amazing display of Egyptian artifacts, including the Rosetta Stone, the Petrie Museum is filled with priceless treasures from a revolutionary period of Egyptian history. This history geek is so grateful for the collection that this organization painstakingly maintains.

(How’s that for a quickie history lesson?)

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Part of the A to Z Challenge!

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c.b.w. 2013

A to Z Abroad: Opera in Beijing

While in China, I had the unique experience of attending a performance of the Beijing Opera. To Western ears, this art form may sound a bit strange at first, but an open mind can turn a series of odd sounds into something really beautiful.

The musical accompaniment is decidedly different from the Western model of opera in that it relies more on the rhythm of percussion and has a smaller emphasis on stringed instruments. In addition to music, Beijing Opera includes a combination of vocals, mime, dance, and acrobatics. Instead of utilizing elaborate set-pieces, the stage is purposely sparse, so it becomes the job of the actors to portray the illusion of place and action. For example, if part of the story involves rowing a boat, the actors mimic the movements of rowing a boat.

Beijing Opera – Movement is everything!
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

Actors are judged on the beauty of their movements more so than creating realism. Each movement has meaning and helps the audience decipher the plot of the opera. The music also aids in this by increasing and decreasing tempo. Ultimately, the entire performance is rooted in symbolism. I can personally attest to the effectiveness of these techniques. Despite the language barrier I was able to follow the story quite easily.

Beijing Opera – Using the power of color to tell a story
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

Prior to the show, I had the privelge of going backstage to watch the performers put on the elaborate make-up and costumes that are essential to the pageantry presented onstage.

Beijing Opera – The elaborate art of face painting
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005

Masks plays an integral role in Beijing Opera. Each color has a different meaning and is used to signal the audience to a character’s role in the story or the emotional state of the character.

• White – sinister, evil crafty or suspicious. Usually associated with the villain.
• Green – impulsive, violent, no self-control
• Red – brave and loyal
• Black – rough, fierce or impartial
• Yellow – ambitious, fierce, cool-headed
• Blue – steadfast

Face make-up derives from the ancient warrior tradition of painting the face prior to battle. Often those with painted faces portray warriors in the story.

The bright colors and artistry of Beijing Opera is a feast for the eyes, but it also provides a unique insight into the heritage and cultural values of the Chinese people.

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Part of the A to Z Challenge!

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c.b.w. 2013