Wrapping A Knitty Christmas

After spending three months knitting socks and accessories for Christmas gifts, I decided these handmade gifts should be wrapped in something more creative than a box and store-bought wrapping paper. While sifting through my art supplies, I came across the most versatile craft item in my arsenal: the brown paper lunch bag. Creative fireworks exploded in my imagination and before I knew it, I had a super cute way to wrap my “Knitty Christmas” gifts.

Pom-poms + polka dots = Merry Christmas!

Believe it or not, these bags are a snap to make . . .

Supplies:

• Red, green, and brown ink pads
• Polka dot stamps of various sizes
• Holiday greeting stamp
• Pine tree branch stamp
• Remnant yarn
• Pom-pom maker (optional)
• Anywhere hole-punch
• gift tags

Directions:

1) Stamp holiday greeting in the center of the bag in red or green ink.

2) Stamp pine tree branch under holiday greeting (or above on some bags to mix things up!)

3) Stamp random polka dots all over the front and back of the bag with red, green, and brown ink. Go nuts and have fun with it!

4) Fold top flap of the bag down about 2½”.

5) Using an anywhere hole-punch, create two holes in the center of the flap (but through all layers of the bag). Space the holes about a ½” apart.

6) Create yarn pom-poms to serve as bows. When tying off the pom-pom, leave long tails (at least 4″).  My pom-poms were made using the leftover yarn from each pair of socks I made. The pom-pom actually matches the socks inside the bag!

7) Once your gift is inside the bag, thread the pom-pom tails through the holes and tie a knot. Tie a gift tag around the pom-pom.

How’s that for simple?

Stay inspired!

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c.b.w. 2012

A Very Knitty Christmas

Back in September, I got the insane idea to knit socks as Christmas gifts for my friends and family. As expected, my sock loom and newly picked up knitting needles have been very busy over the last three months! When it was all said and done, I ended up knitting eight pairs of socks, a hat, and a scarf. Hopefully, getting socks for Christmas this year won’t be a bad thing!

Friends and Family spoiler alert!!! You all probably know you’re getting socks, but there is still the surprise of how they look. If you want it to remain a surprise, don’t scroll down any further!!

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If you’re still scrolling, you must be okay with peeking . . . (Shame on you! Just remember Santa is watching!)

As for everyone else, here’s what I’ve been knitting:

Batch #1: Bright and Colorful

Giving socks for Christmas has never been more fun!

For the most part, I opted to make short socks with a thicker yarn. Instead of knitting 6 inches for the leg, I went with 4 inches. This decision gave me more bang for my yarn buck and allowed me to complete a pair of socks in less than a week, (which is rather handy on a tight schedule!). However, I made two pairs of full-length socks, because I had a lot of yarn in those particular colors and I didn’t want it to go to waste.

Yarn used:

• Yarn Bee Snowflake Wool Blend – Berries/#14
• Yarn Bee Snowflake Wool Blend – Nazcar/#200
• Yarn Bee Snowflake Wool Blend – Pale Aqua/#03
• Baby Bee – Carousel Ombre/#114
• Paton’s Kroy Socks – Lavender Jacquard/#55309

Batch #2: Thick and Warm

These are sure to keep feet toasty warm!

All three pair are again of the short sock variety, but with much ticker yarn. The mismatched stripes are actually done on purpose! The more I knit socks, the more I realize how much I love making socks that don’t match exactly – I guess you could call that my trademark. The colors are the same and so is the pattern, but I purposely switch up the stripe pattern to give them a little oomph.  As my mother would say, “that’s what makes them homemade!”

Yarn used:

• Lion Brand Amazing – Arcadia/#206
• Lion Brand Amazing – Wildflowers/#203
• Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice – Grey Marble/#860

For more details on how to make socks on a knitting loom, check out Leisure Arts’ fantastic how-to guide, Sock Loom Basics. I’d still be hanging out in the “non-knitter” section of the craft store if it wasn’t for this little book!

Batch #3: Warm Accessories

There are two people who will not receive socks this Christmas because I didn’t know their shoe size with enough certainty. It’s a good thing I picked up knitting needles, so I could make something just as special for them!

My first two projects using needles instead of a loom.

The scarf is actually the first thing I ever knitted on a pair of knitting needles, (without help). Considering I am still learning, I’m pretty proud of how it turned out. It’s a gift for a very good friend of mine and I hope it keeps him warm. The hat comes from the idea of a pattern my mother had for many years. She lost it along the way, but together we found a comparable match, so I could make this hat for my dad. I hope he likes what I made with my two little hands! (Dad, you better not be peeking!)

Hat Pattern:

Ribbed Hat Pattern (Free!)

Yarn used:

• Lion Brand Alpine Wool – Barley/#224
• Lion Brand Fisherman’s Wool – Oak Tweed/#200

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Stay tuned for a look at how I wrapped these “knitty” gifts. Handmade gifts deserve handmade wrapping!

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c.b.w. 2012

How To Make Your Own Flag

Why not celebrate the Fourth of July by making an American flag?  All you need is a little patriotism, a few supplies, and a simple layout.

I made my flag about ten years ago without a pattern and in the folk art style.  Thanks to a previous project of making curtains, I had plenty of red and blue plaid scraps, so I put them to use.  The beauty of this project, however, is that any print or style can be used to make a flag.  Search your craft closet or visit your local fabric store to find the perfect print to fit your taste.

Photo and handiwork by c.b.w.

Finished Size:

• 31″ x 24″

Supplies:

• 7 red, 2″ x 31″ strips
• 6 white 2″ x 31″ strips
• 1 blue square 13.5″ x 13.5″
• Red DMC embroidery thread
• 50 1″ star studs
• Spray paint (optional)
• 31″ x 24″ piece of fabric for backing
• needle and thread or sewing machine
• Steam iron

*Special Note: All measurements do not include seam allowance.  Be sure to add your chosen seam allowance to each measurement.

Steps:

1) Cut out red and white stripes.  Sew them together, (start with red at the top), by hand or by machine. Press seams open.

2) Cut out blue square.  Place it in the upper left hand corner of the stripe block and pin into place.

3) Count out 50 star studs. These stars come in gold and silver, but I decided to paint them white with spray paint.  Paint or no paint, place star studs in alternating rows of six and five, (starting with six at the top) until evenly distributed.   Pierce the brackets through all layers of fabric until every star is firmly in place.  Carefully flip the flag over and bend all brackets to secure the stars.

4) To give the blue section a folky look, fray the right and lower edges of the square.  Then, use red (any shade) DMC embroidery thread to stitch the right and bottom edge of the blue square to the stripes.  Use large stitches for that extra folky feel!

5) Cut out fabric backing (an old sheet works really well!).  Layer flag and backing right sides together and pin along all four edges.  Leave a four inch gap to allow for turning right side out.  Sew along all edges and then turn right side out.  Press in the four inch gap and seal with a hidden stitch. Press the entire flag, paying special attention to the newly sewn edges.

This beautiful flag is can be displayed in a number of ways.  Throw it on a table, tack it to a wall, or lay it over the arm of a chair to add a beautiful bit of patriotism to any home. The best part is, you made it yourself!

Happy 4th of July!

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c.b.w. 2012

Penny Rugs: Boot Scrapers to Placemats

The penny rug has humble beginnings, but the beauty of this textile art has endured for more than 200 years.  Homemakers in the 1800s never let anything go to waste, so old clothing, hats, and blankets would be recycled into mats or rugs.  They would use coins as templates to make circles of different sizes, (hence the name “penny” rug) which were then sewn together in a variety of designs using a blanket stitch.  The name “penny rug” also has roots in the practice of sewing pennies inside the rug to make it lie flat.

19th Century Pennsylvania Penny Rug, Photo from J.Compton Gallery

Initially, penny rugs were used as door mats. Concentric circles were layered in stacks of three to give enough texture to clean the bottom of boots.  Burlap bags or feed sacks would also be reused to served as a backing to the rug to make it sturdy.

However, as time went by the penny rug evolved from a boot cleaner to a beautiful way to decorate the home.  Circle designs became more elaborate and were often fused with traditional folk art images, (i.e. quilt patterns, animals, trees, flowers, etc.).  Penny rugs got up off the floor and started adorning everything from tables, dressers, mantles, and even beds!

I started making penny rugs about six years ago.  They are a fantastic alternative to buying placemats that no one really likes and searching endlessly for a table runner that never truly fits the table!  In addition, penny rugs are a wonderful decorative touch for holidays and changing seasons.

Here are some of the penny rugs I’ve made over the years, (with exception to the 19th century Pennsylvania penny rug):

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While penny rugs look to be very intricate, most are actually very easy to make.  The most traditional layouts consist of nothing but circles, so the most difficult part of the entire process is deciding what colors to use.  Thick wools and flannels come in a variety of colors and patterns.  Raid the closet for fabric scraps or visit a local fabric store for a wide selection of wool felt.

The tradition continues to evolve as penny rugs now come in a wide variety of shapes, colors, and patterns.  Modern motifs and folk art mainstays combine seamlessly with the classic penny design. Get those needles out and start stitching!

Penny Rug Wisdom:

• When using felt, be sure to use 100% wool, (or at least a 70/30 blend).  The acrylic stuff warps easily and pills, while the real thing is incredibly sturdy. Besides that, wool felt has a more traditional look that befits a penny rug.
• DMC Pearl Cotton #3 is an ideal thread to use for stitching.  It’s thick without being chunky and strong enough to handle the weight of wool felt.  When working with smaller pieces, use 2 strands of DMC embroidery thread.
• Tapestry needles are perfect for wool appliqué.
• The only stitch you’ll truly ever need is the blanket stitch. I love this stitch because it’s simple and it hides little mistakes.  Stitch School has a great tutorial on a blanket stitch, here.
• Always work in layers.  Complete the rug one layer at a time in a way that allows stitches to be hidden and protected by subsequent layers.
• Always put a backing on a finished piece!  It makes the penny rug more stable and it protects/hides all knots and stitches under the design.
• Use a tiny dot of Aleene’s craft glue to hold a piece in place prior to stitching. This may sound like cheating to some, but I’ve found it be a lifesaver when laying out pieces. Trust me, it works!
• The best way to transfer a pattern to wool is to use freezer paper that has one side coated with plastic. Trace every piece of the pattern (if the pattern calls for 26 circles, trace 26 separate circles).  Cut out the pattern pieces and lay them on the wool plastic side down.  Press them down with a hot, dry iron until all edges are completely bonded.  This makes it so much easier to cut out each piece without the pattern slipping.  The freezer paper will peel right off when no longer needed.
• There’s no such thing as making too many penny rugs!

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c.b.w. 2012

Project Art Journal: Page 11

The next few pages of Project Art Journal have the distinction of being “pocket pages” in that they slide into the open pockets of the paper bag journal.  They are constructed using the same techniques utilized on previous pages, only instead of being attached they can be pulled free. Pocket pages also create an opportunity for design on the outer edge of the art journal as they require tabs and pull strings to make them accessible.

Pocket Page #1

For the first pocket page, I decided to make it a record of the places I’ve traveled, while also dropping hints of places on my bucket list.   The only two trips I don’t have on this page are Ireland (2009) and London (2011). I didn’t plan far enough ahead, so I ran out of space!

Front: Pocket Page #1

Back: Pocket Page #1

Supplies:

• solid card stock
• travel themed card stock
• Lined tags/sticky notes
• stamps
• eyelets
• eyelet setter
• coins
• decorative fibers
• scarab beetle bead (or any other bead!)
• gold beads
• marker
• double-stick tape
• glue dots
• small hole punch
• scissors

Layer 1: Foundation

• Measure and cut a square that is slightly smaller than the paper bag journal page.  Slide it into the open end of the page to make sure it fits and slides out easily.  Trim if necessary.

Layer 2: Background

• Measure and cut two squares that are the same size as Layer 1 using printed card stock with a travel theme.  Attach squares to the front and back of Layer 1 using double-stick tape.

Layer 3: Word Blocks

• I used this layer to record all the places I’ve been over the years, but it can easily be re-configured into a bucket list.  The paper for this layer came from a kit, but regular tablet lined paper is just as good!  Create squares of varying sizes and make lists of places visited or places to go. Attach each square on Layer 2 on both sides in a scattered fashion.  Decide where they look best and stick them down!  Tip: Leave the edges free of tape, so its easy to maneuver the position of the stamps in the next layer.  This way the stamps have more freedom to go over or under Layer 3 items.

Layer 4: Stamps and Coins

• This is my favorite part! Grab some stamps and just start sticking them wherever they look good. Go in all different directions, let them hang off the edge (its so easy to trim the excess!), slide corners under Layer 3, or whatever else comes to mind.  Get reckless!  Make sure both sides get a nice smattering of stamps. Use double-stick tape or a glue stick to attach each stamp.
• The stamps I used are actually representative of my bucket list.  Each one is a place I’d like to go one day.
• Something round goes a long way in a sea of squares, so I added a coin to each side using a glue dot.

Layer 5: Pull Tab

• Select two stamps that are about the same size.
• Cut a square out of plain card stock to fit the size of your chosen stamps.  Attach the stamps using double-stick tape. Trim the edges if necessary.
• Using a small hole punch, make a hole on the right hand side of the square.  Insert and secure eyelet.
• Attach tab to the front side of the page with double-stick tape. Allow the tab to hang over the edge a little more than halfway.
• Thread decorative string through the eyelet hole using a slip loop and then string a bead of your choice.  Add two small gold beads on each strand and knot the ends.
• My bead is a scarab beetle that represents my ultimate dream destination of Egypt.  Every time I see it dangling from my art journal it keeps my dream alive.

Slide the page into the paper bag journal pocket and enjoy!  The tab should stick out and the bead should be visible as well.  Once more pocket pages are added, all that dangles creates a beautiful effect.

Stay inspired!

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For previous Project Art Journal pages, please visit my sidebar and tag could.

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c.b. 2012