Watchful scholars,
cure vacant minds
Hands open wide,
catch empty thoughts
The portal opens,
welcoming all
Leave ignorance
standing outside
Entrance to the Victoria & Albert Museum, London
Photo by: c.b.w. 2005
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In honor of Mother’s Day, I hope it can be forgiven that this week’s Sunday Abroad is a day late.
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c.b.w. 2013
London is home to countless churches filled with centuries of history and lore, but one of the more interesting stories lies within the walls of St. Clement Danes. For about a thousand years this church has stood its ground despite war and fire.
St. Clement Danes, London
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Situated in Westminster, across the street from the Royal Courts of Justice, St. Clement Danes stands as a testament to both the passing of time and the unbreakable nature of persistence. The true origins of this church are up for debate as no one is absolutely certain who built it first or why it includes a reference to the Danes. Of several theories, one of the more commonly accepted is that the church was built by the Danes when they controlled the village of Aldwych (modern day Westminster) in the 9th century.
By the 11th century, the church was rebuilt by William the Conqueror and then again in the Middle Ages. By the 17th century the building was in such disrepair, it was demolished and redesigned by Sir Christopher Wren. In the 18th century, James Gibbs added a steeple to Wren’s tower. And there it stood until World War II.
The London Blitz of 1941 almost destroyed St. Clement Danes. The interior was gutted by fire, but the walls and steeple managed to survive.
St. Clement Danes on fire during the London Blitz
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia Commons
Once again the church was rebuilt, following Christopher Wren’s design. The stubborn walls of St. Clement Danes were left in place and still bear the holes left by German bombs. I was surprised to find the holes are a lot bigger than they look. I could easily fit both of my hands inside of several wall wounds.
St. Clement Danes – Damage from the London Blitz
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
St Clement wears its scars proudly and continues to stand true to this day. Along the side of the church is a plaque that reminds us all to rebuild and never give up when darkness descends.
St. Clement Danes – Plaque commemorating the church’s history.
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
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Just for fun . . . I captured this image one the side wall of St. Clement Danes. Can you see the face??
I see a face!
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
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Part of the A to Z Challenge!
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c.b.w. 2013
London is full of amazing public parks filled with green grass and gardens, but Regent’s Park has the special distinction of housing Queen Mary’s Gardens. This world famous garden was named for George V’s wife and was opened to the public in 1934. Now a popular pedestrian destination, it’s all too easy to spend an entire afternoon surrounded by roses.
The rose garden includes 12,000 roses of 85 varieties, including a special variety known as the Royal Parks rose. Visiting the garden during the first two weeks of June ensures a colorful and fragrant visit to Regent’s Park.
When I went to Regent’s Park, I instantly fell in love with the rose gardens, (I was there the first week of June so everything was in bloom). Even though the sky was gray, the bright colors of the roses added cheer to an otherwise dreary day.
Roses in Regent’s Park brighten a gray day.
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Elaborate royal gates adorn the entry points, adding a sense of elegance to already beautiful place.
Red Roses and a Royal Gate
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Roses of every color, from peach to purple, to yellow cover the grounds. For a small fee, it’s possible to sit in a park chair and enjoy the scenery.
A place to sit and enjoy the roses.
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Deeper into the garden, there is a circular walkway filled roses bushes and rose vines. It was like walking into a fairytale wedding of a Disney Princess. I kept waiting for a knight in shining armor to ride up on his white horse. That’s how magical this place feels!
Ring around the roses.
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
A sea of roses!
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
When in London, it is almost customary to take a walk among the roses!
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Part of the A to Z Challenge!
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c.b.w. 2013
London is well-known for world-class museums like the British Museum, National Gallery, and Tate Modern. These museums all house incredible collections of artifacts and artistic expression, but there is another museum with an equally impressive inventory that often gets overlooked.
The Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archeology occupies a small space on Malet Place (near Gower St) and is part of University College London Museums and Collections. If you can find the small door and the bell to ring to gain entrance, be prepared to stare in awe at the artifacts contained in row after row of glass cases.
Petrie Museum – Clay vessels and pots
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Instead of the wide-open spaces of the British Museum, the Petrie feels more like a basement with cramped spaces and crowded shelves. Because many of the artifacts are still utilized for scientific study, the emphasis is not on visual display, but rather meticulous classification. Objects are organized by type (i.e. glasswork, vessels, stone reliefs, jewelry, statues, textiles, tools, etc) and by time period.
Petrie Museum – clay molds used during the Amarna Period
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Despite the relatively small size of the Petrie Museum, it boasts one of the largest collections of Egyptian artifacts in the world, particularly from the Amarna Period. Forgive me as I geek out, but the Amarana Period has been the subject of years of personal study. There are no words to describe my excitement when I walked through the door and saw thousands of artifacts that existed in an era that I actively try to reconstruct in my mind.
Petrie Museum – Gorgeous glass fragments from Amarna
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
During the Amarna Period, the Heretic King, Ankhenaten ruled over Egypt. Ankhenaten attempted to transform the polytheistic faith of ancient Egypt into a monotheistic faith system. In effect, he wanted to take away all the gods of Egyptian mythology and replace them with one god, the Aten (or Sun god). In addition, he moved the capital of Egypt to a spot in the middle of the desert and built a new city in honor of the Aten called Akhetaten, (now known as Amarna). Both ventures were horrific failures and lead to economic and social collapse. Ankhenaten died a reviled figure and left a broken kingdom to his son Tutankhamun, (the infamous King Tut).
Petrie Museum – Stone relief carving
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Political and religious movements aside, the Amarana Period is also a unique era of artistic expression. Prior to the reign of Ankenaten, Egyptian art maintained a very strict tradition of symmetry with figures that had an almost “boxy” appearance. In Amarna, art took on very different aesthetic with distinctive curves and stronger references to the Aten.
The image below, (on display at the museum) shows these characteristics. A headless Aknenaten has very wide, curvy hips and a drooping belly. In the old style, the Pharaoh would never be depicted as anything less than a perfect god, so showing these imperfections is a drastic change!
A reference to the monotheistic movement can also be seen in the sun “rays” tipped with hands carrying the ankh – a simple of life. Akhenaten and his wife Nefertiti are graciously accepting the life-giving force of the Aten and giving offerings in return, (Nefertiti is holding a vessel, which is typically viewed as an offering).
Petrie Museum – Ankhenaten and Nefertiti gathering the gift of life from the Aten
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
While the British Museum has an amazing display of Egyptian artifacts, including the Rosetta Stone, the Petrie Museum is filled with priceless treasures from a revolutionary period of Egyptian history. This history geek is so grateful for the collection that this organization painstakingly maintains.
(How’s that for a quickie history lesson?)
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Part of the A to Z Challenge!
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c.b.w. 2013
For my fourth trip to London, I decided I wanted to get a real sense of what it’s like to live in London, so I rented a room in a flat in the North London borough of Muswell Hill. That choice turned out to be one of the best travel decisions I’ve ever made. I spent three weeks in Muswell Hill and it didn’t take long for it to feel like home.
Muswell Hill has the feeling of a small town, despite being surrounded by the giant metropolis that is London. The streets and neighborhoods are surprisingly quiet, yet bustling with city energy. Made up of middle class and working class professionals, this neighborhood feels a lot like my own back in the States. The only difference is instead of stucco homes built twenty years ago, the buildings of Muswell Hill are red brick and at least 150 years old! The mix of modern life and historical architecture is one of my favorite elements of the London atmosphere.
A street in Muswell Hill (that has a really great bookshop)
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Like most London boroughs, Muswell Hill has a central point where shops, public transportation, and social events converge. Muswell Hill Broadway serves as the central artery that pulls everything and everyone together.
Muswell Hill Broadway
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
I spent more than a couple of days enjoying the shops of Muswell Hill Broadway. There are fantastic bookshops tucked into unassuming storefronts and more than a few worthwhile cafes. On one of my favorite days, I went to a great craft store, Art for Art’s Sake, and then the coffee shop next door.
Crafts and coffee made for a perfect day!
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Follow the curve of Muswell Hill Broadway and it leads to the center of town. This is the where the buses from the city come through and it’s the hub for all major streets. Bus 43 goes from Muswell Hill all the way to London Bridge. For the price of a bus fare, (£1.40 with Oyster card), it’s possible to see the all major sites of London from a double-decker bus, while also taking in the local scenery.
Hop onto Bus 43!
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Past the central hub is the area’s only movie theater or cinema, The Odeon. I saw “X-men: Origins” one afternoon and it was a hoot, (see Saturday Matinee in Muswell Hill). The Odeon is actually considered a historical building as it is well-known for its art deco architecture.
Watch a movie while surrounded by history.
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Last, but not least, Muswell Hill offers a very unique view of the London skyline. Whether peeking through side streets or from one of the hills of Alexandra Park, the landmark buildings of downtown London seem so far away even though they’re only a 15-minute train ride away.
A slightly different view of London!
c.b.w. 2011
View of central London from a hilltop.
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
Aside from amazing city views, Alexandra Park is also a nice place to sit and feed the ducks. The roses always seem to be in bloom and there’s never a shortage of green.
Alexandra Park, Muswell Hill
Photo by: c.b.w. 2011
The best part about Muswell Hill is how easily the people accepted me as part of the neighborhood. Within a week the baristas knew my usual coffee order and said hello like I’d lived there all my life. I’ll never forget that kindness.
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Part of the A to Z Challenge!
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c.b.w. 2013
